Yesterday was the last day of school before our summer vacation. I’m incredibly relieved to be able to take a break. Not to state the obvious, but teaching is draining, especially when you’re trying to keep up with really young students. On the negative side, I can’t really go anywhere during our break, because I’m pretty much broke. But that doesn’t matter; I still get a week to relax and take in Seoul.
I made a couple references to food before, and I think it’s about time I give you guys a little taste of Korean cuisine (emphasis on little).
There is, of course, Kimchi. No food discussion is complete without it. But I talked about it last post, so I won’t beat a dead horse. Yet. As far as restaurants go, there are several different kinds of restaurants. The first type I experienced was Korean barbeque, or Galbi. That’s probably the best of the types that I’ve tried. I mentioned it in one of my earlier posts (it’s where we sat around an open flame and cooked meat, mushrooms, etc and wrapped them in leaves.). Aside from Galbi, I’m not sure how to classify places, but I’ll do my best and hope that it’s not too appallingly wrong.
There are porridge places. Korean porridge is a rice dish that is somewhat similar to Western porridge, if only in consistency. The dish includes runny rice mixed with vegetables and meats. I had a beef mushroom porridge from a place across the street from work. It was very good. Although I did really like the meal, the best part was actually the plum juice I got at the end. Korea is good for a lot of juices that I can’t get in the states, but no cranberry juice. L One thing about porridge is that it’s something you eat if you’re sick. It seems healthy, and the spices clear your sinuses … I think I’d prefer that to chicken noodle soup, but somehow I think it’s just about as scientifically beneficial.
Other than those two places, I’ve been to restaurants that serve you more like a restaurant in the states. That’s where I had the most unusual meat I’ve eaten here: spam. Apparently when the US was here during the Korean War, they’d make this soup now called budae jjigae. The Koreans would start making a soup, and American soldiers would add spam and hotdogs to the dish. Revolting though it may sound, the soup has stuck, and it’s served in restaurants. They probably eat more spam now than the US does, possibly because the soup is actually good. It’s spicy, and the broth itself somehow makes spam edible. Who knew?
The aforementioned restaurant was the source of all manner of gastronomical exploration on my part. I got to have the badae jjigae and also this curious Kimchi Jong dish. Kimchi Jong is like a Kimchi pancake. If you like Kimchi, or spice, you’d probably like this. I think there’s some potato in it to hold it together, and for the first time since I got here, I was served something with cheese.
Apparently, Koreans don’t eat a lot of cheese. Or breakfast food. According to the people I’ve asked, the traditional Korean breakfast is Ramen (this explains my airline meals). Anyway, you can find cereals and such in the grocery store, and there are foreign food places that make a Western breakfast (like a waffle house called “Butterfingers” of all things).
One of the food-related things I love here in Korea is, oddly enough, the condiments. Those of you who know too much about my eating habits know that I don’t really care for ketchup, mustard, or relish. But here, they almost always give you a chili paste with your meal. It’s only a little spicy, but so much better than ketchup (though sometimes it comes in something akin to a ketchup bottle). Also, there’s a red bean paste that they serve with the meat in Galbis.
Honestly, I’d eat almost anything if it had one of those two pastes.
By now, I’ve probably gone too far expounding on my limited experiences with Korean cuisine. But I’m going to give one final aside: booze. Alcohol is ever present here. By ever present, I don’t mean people are stumbling around drunkenly, or that there are bars on every corner. But it’s a whole lot more available than at home. There are alcohol vending machines. I can buy Soju (a rice based alcohol varying between 40 and 80 proof) for 2000 won at a convenience store. For those of you playing at home, that’s about $1.60. I went to a movie last night (Harry Potter) and bought a beer with my popcorn. Also, there are several fast food places that can serve alcoholic beverages, and Seoul doesn’t have any laws about open containers. I think the laxity is probably because Korea doesn’t have the same issues with alcohol as the US. But I’m not here to provide social commentary; I just wanted to say there’s a lot of booze to be had here.
With that wonderful insight, I’ll sign off.
Friday, July 24, 2009
Saturday, July 18, 2009
True/False
Last post I told everyone about my hagwon, but I forgot to mention that specific word. “Hagwon” is the Korean term for a private school that focuses on a certain thing (piano, a language, Pilates). An English school is called a “'yeong-eoh hagwon,” and if I tell a Korean that I work for a hagwon, he or she doesn’t really expect me to be a piano teacher. As a side note, I learned this word at work and proceeded to look it up on Wikipedia. The things it said about hagwons scared me a little (their reputations for how they treat their staff, etc). But after two weeks and a large number of conversations with coworkers, I know that I don’t have to worry about this school.
Now you’re all going to look it up in Wikipedia.
My hagwon is part of a larger private school corporation, and you could kind of liken it to a school franchise. Interestingly enough, the corporation itself is the original creator of English hagwons.
After looking up “hagwon” in Wikipedia, I started thinking about all the things I was told about Korea that were pretty much untrue. For example, people said that I wouldn’t be able to eat anything but Korean food. On my second night here, I went to TGIFridays. There’s a Pizza Hut, Outback Steakhouse, and Dunkin Doughnuts within five minutes walking distance of my house. So that was clearly false (though it’s probably closer to the truth in a smaller city). Another thing about Korean food that people kept warning me about was that the meat is sketchy. Okay, so there are probably plenty of places that have spurious meat, but the most unusual meat I’ve come across here has been Spam. I ate Spam in a soup last Monday. It’s not that hard to find decent meat here, and it’s frankly a little insulting to imply otherwise.
Falsehood number three: You won’t find any clothing or shoes in your size. One of my Korean coworkers has the same size feet as me. Pretty much everywhere carries up to an eight or nine. If you have larger feet than that (American women’s feet average at size ten), you can go to special shops that carry those sizes. I wandered into a shoe store today that carried ten and higher; it’s not that hard. Not to mention, there’s this area in Seoul called Itaewon that caters to foreigners. Itaewon is near the American Air Base and has the largest population of non-Asians in Seoul (probably in South Korea). The point is there are many shops here that have sizes that you need if you’re larger in stature.
I’ve only been here for two weeks, and already most of the things I heard about or read have been proven false.
That said, I have learned a few interesting things about Korean culture that I decided to pass on to you lucky people. First of all, I mentioned Kimchi before, but I didn’t give it the emphasis that it deserves. Kimchi is a spicy pickled cabbage side dish served with everything. I’ve had Kimchi with every Korean meal, and a part of me suspects that I would receive it as a side if I went to a restaurant for breakfast. It’s so vital to Korea’s food and culture that Korean appliance stores sell Kimchi fridges. These refrigerators store your yearly supply of Kimchi at the exact temperature for optimum taste. Honestly, the best analogy I can come up with is that Kimchi is to Korea what pasta is to Italy. When a foreigner tells a Korean that he or she doesn’t care for Kimchi, they are incredibly surprised. Why wouldn’t you love the pickled cabbage that I’ve been eating since I teethed?
Today, I found out that Koreans consider it extremely bad luck to write someone’s name in red pen. I’m not sure why. Also, when a group is served drinks, the youngest female is supposed to pour for everyone. This social nicety isn’t really followed by the people I know, but they’ve mentioned it. Fashion-wise, they don’t seem to have any particular styles, except that I’ve seen several things that remind me of middle school. A number of women have had the big, boxy sandals that were really popular in the 90’s. They’re fond of Crocs here (why, God, why?). Also, even grown women wear unusual nail colors (neon orange, sparkly pink, etc). As I’m writing this blog, I can’t help glancing at my nails. I got my first manicure today. Apparently manicures are pretty big here, and I’ve got a bright aquamarine color. Between my current nail hue and my Hello Kitty subway card, I’m looking kind of Korean (well, you know what I mean).
Let’s not forget KPop (Korean Pop Music). Kpop is hugely entertaining. If you’re in the mood for a laugh, you should check out “Lollipop” by Big Bang. The music video is fantastic. There’s also a thirteen member boy band called Super Junior (why thirteen?) that did a song called “Sorry, Sorry.” This song is wildly popular right now, and I highly recommend checking that out on YouTube as well.
I’d better stop now, but I have lots of things to say about Korean food. So maybe you’ll read about that sometime soon!
Now you’re all going to look it up in Wikipedia.
My hagwon is part of a larger private school corporation, and you could kind of liken it to a school franchise. Interestingly enough, the corporation itself is the original creator of English hagwons.
After looking up “hagwon” in Wikipedia, I started thinking about all the things I was told about Korea that were pretty much untrue. For example, people said that I wouldn’t be able to eat anything but Korean food. On my second night here, I went to TGIFridays. There’s a Pizza Hut, Outback Steakhouse, and Dunkin Doughnuts within five minutes walking distance of my house. So that was clearly false (though it’s probably closer to the truth in a smaller city). Another thing about Korean food that people kept warning me about was that the meat is sketchy. Okay, so there are probably plenty of places that have spurious meat, but the most unusual meat I’ve come across here has been Spam. I ate Spam in a soup last Monday. It’s not that hard to find decent meat here, and it’s frankly a little insulting to imply otherwise.
Falsehood number three: You won’t find any clothing or shoes in your size. One of my Korean coworkers has the same size feet as me. Pretty much everywhere carries up to an eight or nine. If you have larger feet than that (American women’s feet average at size ten), you can go to special shops that carry those sizes. I wandered into a shoe store today that carried ten and higher; it’s not that hard. Not to mention, there’s this area in Seoul called Itaewon that caters to foreigners. Itaewon is near the American Air Base and has the largest population of non-Asians in Seoul (probably in South Korea). The point is there are many shops here that have sizes that you need if you’re larger in stature.
I’ve only been here for two weeks, and already most of the things I heard about or read have been proven false.
That said, I have learned a few interesting things about Korean culture that I decided to pass on to you lucky people. First of all, I mentioned Kimchi before, but I didn’t give it the emphasis that it deserves. Kimchi is a spicy pickled cabbage side dish served with everything. I’ve had Kimchi with every Korean meal, and a part of me suspects that I would receive it as a side if I went to a restaurant for breakfast. It’s so vital to Korea’s food and culture that Korean appliance stores sell Kimchi fridges. These refrigerators store your yearly supply of Kimchi at the exact temperature for optimum taste. Honestly, the best analogy I can come up with is that Kimchi is to Korea what pasta is to Italy. When a foreigner tells a Korean that he or she doesn’t care for Kimchi, they are incredibly surprised. Why wouldn’t you love the pickled cabbage that I’ve been eating since I teethed?
Today, I found out that Koreans consider it extremely bad luck to write someone’s name in red pen. I’m not sure why. Also, when a group is served drinks, the youngest female is supposed to pour for everyone. This social nicety isn’t really followed by the people I know, but they’ve mentioned it. Fashion-wise, they don’t seem to have any particular styles, except that I’ve seen several things that remind me of middle school. A number of women have had the big, boxy sandals that were really popular in the 90’s. They’re fond of Crocs here (why, God, why?). Also, even grown women wear unusual nail colors (neon orange, sparkly pink, etc). As I’m writing this blog, I can’t help glancing at my nails. I got my first manicure today. Apparently manicures are pretty big here, and I’ve got a bright aquamarine color. Between my current nail hue and my Hello Kitty subway card, I’m looking kind of Korean (well, you know what I mean).
Let’s not forget KPop (Korean Pop Music). Kpop is hugely entertaining. If you’re in the mood for a laugh, you should check out “Lollipop” by Big Bang. The music video is fantastic. There’s also a thirteen member boy band called Super Junior (why thirteen?) that did a song called “Sorry, Sorry.” This song is wildly popular right now, and I highly recommend checking that out on YouTube as well.
I’d better stop now, but I have lots of things to say about Korean food. So maybe you’ll read about that sometime soon!
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Jamaican Me Crazy!
Okay, I know I’ve been a little negligent about writing in my blog, but I haven’t had internet at home. As you imagine, blogging at work about my job is a little awkward. I now have internet access at home, so there’s no more excuse.
When I first arrived here, everyone kept asking me if I knew the deal about my job. Those words don’t exactly build confidence. Anyway, the deal is that I have the baby class (that’s what they call it). By baby class, I mean three and four year olds. In Korean culture, you are one year old when you’re born, and then you turn two on January 1st. So if you’re born on December 31st, you are two in January. I’m teaching “five” year olds. But in reality, their ages vary and the maturity levels are drastically different. Teaching three year olds and four year olds is a little different from teaching five year olds. But I’m getting a little ahead of myself. I should explain about what I’ve been doing.
Last week, I spent most of my time observing the other teachers. I would sit in their rooms and take notes of what they were doing and how everything worked. Of course, most of what they did couldn’t really be applied to my class (I have the only baby class) so the really helpful information came from just talking to the teachers. The main point stressed: discipline. I don’t want to speak ill of the former teacher, but the fact is that discipline is an issue. Those of you who know me may not have trouble picturing me scaring the bejeezus out of three year olds. Okay, you’re right. But there’s a difference between scaring someone and disciplining them. And I’m a little concerned that I’ll only accomplish the former. That’s not even to mention the fact that I have to somehow balance fear and affection (they’re only three and four for Christ’s sake). So I’ve got a lot of learning to do right now. I also need to make some adjustments to my behaviors for this job.
Aside from doing a lot of smiling and using a “happy” voice, teachers in my school (especially for my students) are expected to give the children a lot of physical affection. There’s no way to say that without sounding a little dirty. It’s a bit of a change to hug etc. the children, and I admit that I’ve had to make a conscious effort to do so. Another thing is watching my mouth. I don’t think swear words are going to pop out any time soon, but that’s not the worry. In Korea, the words “crazy” and “silly” are really bad. Apparently they only carry the negative connotations. You never realize how often you say those words until it’s a big cultural no-no. (You’re driving me crazy. That’s crazy!) I in particular use crazy a lot, and considering one of my fellow teachers got in trouble for saying it, I’ll have to find a new word. I’m leaning towards absurd.
As I mentioned, last week was observation. This week I started teaching. I have the baby class from 9:40 to 2:30 (with an hour for lunch), and then I have a few afternoon classes. Those classes, I’m sorry to say, are a welcome reprieve after my baby class. Despite only being a couple years older, everyone seems so mature. These classes last from 2:40 to 4:10, then from 4:10 to 5:30. After that, I have private lessons with some students who need special help. Three days of the week I work until 7:00, and the other two last until 5:30. It’s an adjustment to go from staying at home and doing yoga and Guitar Hero to teaching small children until seven at night.
Aside from teaching and observing, I’ve done a little exploring and eating Korean, but that is a blog for another day. I fear that this blog is probably already too long to keep your interest. Drop me an email if you have any questions! I have internet!
When I first arrived here, everyone kept asking me if I knew the deal about my job. Those words don’t exactly build confidence. Anyway, the deal is that I have the baby class (that’s what they call it). By baby class, I mean three and four year olds. In Korean culture, you are one year old when you’re born, and then you turn two on January 1st. So if you’re born on December 31st, you are two in January. I’m teaching “five” year olds. But in reality, their ages vary and the maturity levels are drastically different. Teaching three year olds and four year olds is a little different from teaching five year olds. But I’m getting a little ahead of myself. I should explain about what I’ve been doing.
Last week, I spent most of my time observing the other teachers. I would sit in their rooms and take notes of what they were doing and how everything worked. Of course, most of what they did couldn’t really be applied to my class (I have the only baby class) so the really helpful information came from just talking to the teachers. The main point stressed: discipline. I don’t want to speak ill of the former teacher, but the fact is that discipline is an issue. Those of you who know me may not have trouble picturing me scaring the bejeezus out of three year olds. Okay, you’re right. But there’s a difference between scaring someone and disciplining them. And I’m a little concerned that I’ll only accomplish the former. That’s not even to mention the fact that I have to somehow balance fear and affection (they’re only three and four for Christ’s sake). So I’ve got a lot of learning to do right now. I also need to make some adjustments to my behaviors for this job.
Aside from doing a lot of smiling and using a “happy” voice, teachers in my school (especially for my students) are expected to give the children a lot of physical affection. There’s no way to say that without sounding a little dirty. It’s a bit of a change to hug etc. the children, and I admit that I’ve had to make a conscious effort to do so. Another thing is watching my mouth. I don’t think swear words are going to pop out any time soon, but that’s not the worry. In Korea, the words “crazy” and “silly” are really bad. Apparently they only carry the negative connotations. You never realize how often you say those words until it’s a big cultural no-no. (You’re driving me crazy. That’s crazy!) I in particular use crazy a lot, and considering one of my fellow teachers got in trouble for saying it, I’ll have to find a new word. I’m leaning towards absurd.
As I mentioned, last week was observation. This week I started teaching. I have the baby class from 9:40 to 2:30 (with an hour for lunch), and then I have a few afternoon classes. Those classes, I’m sorry to say, are a welcome reprieve after my baby class. Despite only being a couple years older, everyone seems so mature. These classes last from 2:40 to 4:10, then from 4:10 to 5:30. After that, I have private lessons with some students who need special help. Three days of the week I work until 7:00, and the other two last until 5:30. It’s an adjustment to go from staying at home and doing yoga and Guitar Hero to teaching small children until seven at night.
Aside from teaching and observing, I’ve done a little exploring and eating Korean, but that is a blog for another day. I fear that this blog is probably already too long to keep your interest. Drop me an email if you have any questions! I have internet!
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Weekend
It's Sunday here in Seoul, and I'm recovering from a weekend of action. It seems like ever since I got here, people have been keeping me from falling asleep. This is good in some ways, but not so much in others.
On Friday night, one of my coworkers celebrated his birthday at a Korean hot spot: TGIFriday's. It's funny how you see some chains that you wouldn't really expect. I've seen the usuals (McDonald's, Burger King, Starbucks), but also some oddities (Outback, Dunkin Donuts). Well, at any rate, we went to TGIFriday's and then to an Irish pub. That's where I had my first experience with Noraebang (pronounced No-re-bong). Noraebang is Korean Karaoke. More specifically, you can rent private Karaoke rooms and sing until your ears bleed. And let me tell you, my ears were not too far from bleeding. None of my coworkers are particularly gifted singers. Not that this is a bad thing; it made it easier for me to join. On a side note, Livin on a Prayer has high notes that I find impossible to hit, as did the girl singing with me. Like I said, mixed results on the Noraebang front. It was fun to participate, but no one, and I mean no one, needs to hear a Karaoke version of Night Fever. Who knew someone could sing that worse than the Bee Gees?
That was a late night, and then I had an early morning thanks to the jackhammering nearby. On Saturday, the girl I'm replacing took me around to a few places around Seoul. We went to a very cool, very overwhelming open market. On our way, we had Kimchi Dumplings, which were delicious, and Rice cakes (also tasty). The market is hard to describe. Just think of the largest number of people and things you can picture stuffed into a small space. Now double the population, add seas of pastel fabrics, live fish, and open flames, and you might have some idea. We also walked along the river nearby. In the end, we went to a Korean tea house and I had a barley tea. It was pretty good, but for a long time I couldn't figure out what it tasted like. In a moment of brilliance, I realized that it tasted just like Multi-grain Cheerios in liquid form. That piece of information kind of made me feel weird about drinking it, but I do love those Cheerios.
All in all, a strange 4th of July for me. No fireworks, but there was fire.
On Friday night, one of my coworkers celebrated his birthday at a Korean hot spot: TGIFriday's. It's funny how you see some chains that you wouldn't really expect. I've seen the usuals (McDonald's, Burger King, Starbucks), but also some oddities (Outback, Dunkin Donuts). Well, at any rate, we went to TGIFriday's and then to an Irish pub. That's where I had my first experience with Noraebang (pronounced No-re-bong). Noraebang is Korean Karaoke. More specifically, you can rent private Karaoke rooms and sing until your ears bleed. And let me tell you, my ears were not too far from bleeding. None of my coworkers are particularly gifted singers. Not that this is a bad thing; it made it easier for me to join. On a side note, Livin on a Prayer has high notes that I find impossible to hit, as did the girl singing with me. Like I said, mixed results on the Noraebang front. It was fun to participate, but no one, and I mean no one, needs to hear a Karaoke version of Night Fever. Who knew someone could sing that worse than the Bee Gees?
That was a late night, and then I had an early morning thanks to the jackhammering nearby. On Saturday, the girl I'm replacing took me around to a few places around Seoul. We went to a very cool, very overwhelming open market. On our way, we had Kimchi Dumplings, which were delicious, and Rice cakes (also tasty). The market is hard to describe. Just think of the largest number of people and things you can picture stuffed into a small space. Now double the population, add seas of pastel fabrics, live fish, and open flames, and you might have some idea. We also walked along the river nearby. In the end, we went to a Korean tea house and I had a barley tea. It was pretty good, but for a long time I couldn't figure out what it tasted like. In a moment of brilliance, I realized that it tasted just like Multi-grain Cheerios in liquid form. That piece of information kind of made me feel weird about drinking it, but I do love those Cheerios.
All in all, a strange 4th of July for me. No fireworks, but there was fire.
Friday, July 3, 2009
First Impressions
I'm in my apartment in Seoul right now. I'm not terribly busy yet because I don't speak Korean, I don't know the area (I will get lost if I wander around, I'm pretty sure), and I don't have anything to do yet. Please don't think I'm complaining, because I'm very happy to be able to just chill at home for a while. I don't remember what all I told anyone, but I'm living with the girl I'm replacing for a week. She's wonderful. She's been showing me around, answering all my questions, and generally helping me get along. It's about 11:00 am right now, so she's working, but she'll be around at noon to take me to lunch. Let me describe a little of what happened on my flights and such. I flew from Minneapolis to San Francisco (4 hrs). My layover in San Francisco was four and a half hours long (it took forever) and then the plane boarded about 45 minutes late. Next came the 12 and a half hour flight to Seoul Incheon Airport. I got lucky because I sat next to a Korean woman probably in her late twenties who was coming back after completing medical school in New York. She was friendly and patient and willing to chat with an ignorant girl. What was even better was that she didn't want to talk the whole time and we fell into a natural pattern of occassional comments and watching tv/sleeping. I'm not sure how much I slept. It was the kind of sleep where you are part conscious but you dream about things you think are happening. I was in and out for a while and then I got to Seoul. We were an hour late but the man picking me up was there and waiting (with my name on a sign!). He doesn't speak much English, so we didn't exactly talk. I was tired anyway, and I wanted to see what Korean traffic signs and such looked like anyway (you can call me a nerd). They're written in Korean, Japanese, and English, which makes for a crowded sign. I'm kind of surprised by how much English there is here. I could probably get by without knowing much Korean at all (but I don't intend to).
As I said, the girl I'm replacing has been showing me around. We chatted, she made me tea, and I changed. Then she took me to a bar nearby where some of our coworkers were. I had a Korean beer called Cass (it was tasty) and met three of my coworkers (all from Canada), and then we all went to a Korean barbeque nearby. It was delicious, cheap, and all in all enjoyable. We took off our shoes when entering and then sat at what I'd consider a booth. The booth was kind of like an elevated floor with a square hole where the table sat (it really reminded me of the deck around a hot tub). Anyway, the tables in the middle had charcoal grills, and when we ordered they brought raw meat pieces and various other foods in small bowls. We'd grill the meat, maybe some mushrooms and radishes or vegetables, then wrap everything up in a large leaf and eat. I also had the quintessential Korean dish, Kimche, for the first time. Kimche is fermented cabbage with lots of spices. It looked kind of like shell pasta with a little marinara. Considering I was worried it would taste like spicy Sauerkraut, it was very good (it tastes nothing like Sauerkraut, by the way). Apparently it's an acquired taste for most people, but I think I will acquire it.
One last little note about living here. The apartment smells surprisingly similar to my place in Italy. I'm not sure why; maybe it's because of mold? Either way, I can't help thinking of Italy when I walk in my apartment.
As I said, the girl I'm replacing has been showing me around. We chatted, she made me tea, and I changed. Then she took me to a bar nearby where some of our coworkers were. I had a Korean beer called Cass (it was tasty) and met three of my coworkers (all from Canada), and then we all went to a Korean barbeque nearby. It was delicious, cheap, and all in all enjoyable. We took off our shoes when entering and then sat at what I'd consider a booth. The booth was kind of like an elevated floor with a square hole where the table sat (it really reminded me of the deck around a hot tub). Anyway, the tables in the middle had charcoal grills, and when we ordered they brought raw meat pieces and various other foods in small bowls. We'd grill the meat, maybe some mushrooms and radishes or vegetables, then wrap everything up in a large leaf and eat. I also had the quintessential Korean dish, Kimche, for the first time. Kimche is fermented cabbage with lots of spices. It looked kind of like shell pasta with a little marinara. Considering I was worried it would taste like spicy Sauerkraut, it was very good (it tastes nothing like Sauerkraut, by the way). Apparently it's an acquired taste for most people, but I think I will acquire it.
One last little note about living here. The apartment smells surprisingly similar to my place in Italy. I'm not sure why; maybe it's because of mold? Either way, I can't help thinking of Italy when I walk in my apartment.
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